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The windmills of Angla
Standing in a field on the island of Saaremaa are five wooden windmills. They make a striking arrangement when viewed from an angle....
bernienapp
5 days ago2 min read
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The silent treatment
Friends in Estonia showed me the ERR website , the state news and broadcasting service, in the hope of my improving my rudimentary...
bernienapp
Aug 162 min read
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Nine skills
In Viking tradition, the accomplished person is one who has mastered nine skills. The poet who wrote the list was born in Norway, and...
bernienapp
Aug 83 min read
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The summer house
Asked what Estonians do at their summer houses, I was told they basically chop firewood. There’s more to it, of course: having a sauna,...
bernienapp
Jul 292 min read
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Arrival in NZ
“You will be taught the language, our money system, the rights and duties of citizenship, and our social customs before you attempt to...
bernienapp
Jul 223 min read
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Estonia's first national park
Among the vast output of books in the Estonian language during the Soviet era is a beautiful coffee table book published in 1983 titled...
bernienapp
Jul 172 min read
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Scything man
Curved blade of Austrian tempered steel attached to an ash shaft, a whetstone of Italian quartz sandstone to hone it, kept in a copper...
bernienapp
Jul 123 min read
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Cornflowers
Grandma used to plant them, a summer flower having a dandelion-like circle of blue petals. Auntie Johanna had sent her seeds from...
bernienapp
Jun 273 min read
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Colouring the senses
Estonia’s points of difference to the rest of the world have been a running theme in this series of blogposts. One claim is that Uralic...
bernienapp
Jun 203 min read
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Singing sands
Mystical and magical is how Estonian tourism websites describe two sandy beaches in Estonia that make melodic sounds in the right...
bernienapp
Jun 112 min read
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JRR Tolkien and writing on Estonia
An English writer’s fantasy epic of a ring of evil power and of a wizard, hobbits, men, a dwarf and an elf who seek to destroy it has...
bernienapp
Jun 34 min read
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'Wife carrying' anyone?
For a non-PC sport, men moving as fast as they can through an obstacle course carrying a woman on their back would be a prime candidate....
bernienapp
May 263 min read
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Perilous marsh lights
In Estonia, as in much of the world, flickering marsh lights were said to lead unwary travellers to their doom. All the stories describe...
bernienapp
May 204 min read
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Massacre at Salme
Around 1,300 years ago two boatloads of hardy, young warriors received the shock of their lives on landing at an Estonian island....
bernienapp
May 122 min read
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Naming the Estonians
Naming a people and the place where they live stamps their identity. Eesti and eesti rahvas  or eestlased  do that for a subset of...
bernienapp
May 63 min read
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The immortal loser
There is no sensation quite like losing at chess, especially with a draw in sight and failing to escape. That’s what happened to me...
bernienapp
May 13 min read
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What's your spirit animal?
Shamanism was at one time, and still is a thing in Estonia. This tradition of entering an ecstatic trance to enter the spirit world...
bernienapp
Apr 242 min read
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Crickets ...
Golden light on the hills, sitting on a friend’s deck drinking cold water, tired from trimming and tying grape vines, and listening to...
bernienapp
Apr 162 min read
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Songs of the Kääpa river
Small in flow, the Kääpa northeast of Tartu runs thick in legend and inspiration. This gently flowing stream is where the epic hero...
bernienapp
Apr 103 min read
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'Among the Russians'
“I drove west from Leningrad towards those troubled Baltic states – Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania – whose tragedy has been their tiny size,...
bernienapp
Apr 23 min read
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