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Deeper in time
In a log cabin in the forest there lived an Estonian. That is to say the ancestors of a people who spoke an ancient tongue, east of the Ural mountains, and to be precise, in the Ob river catchment in western Siberia. Pine, spruce and birch forests formed their home, amid rivers, bogs and lakes, within that vast horizontal band across northern Eurasia called the taiga. To the south lies the steppe, grasslands spreading from Mongolia / China to Ukraine in the west, as far as
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2 days ago3 min read


A migratory bird
Spring has arrived, and the swallows and other birds are already angling to nest in the roof of, and under the eaves of the summer cabin....
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Oct 112 min read


Log cabins
I have long wondered whether the ancestors of Finns and Estonians invented the log cabin, and CA Weslager provides an answer. In The Log...
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Oct 63 min read


On self-determination
“The secret of Chimneys” is the title of a 1925 murder mystery-romance by Agatha Christie, the prolific British crime writer. It involves...
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Sep 263 min read


Why visit Estonia?
“The incredible Estonians” was one working title for this project; another, “Living at the edge of free Europe”. How have 1.2 million...
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Sep 152 min read


A silver brooch
Completing the traditional Estonian regalia of a white peasant shirt or blouse tied at the waist in a woollen belt is a brooch to fasten...
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Sep 82 min read


The importance of myth
The Estonians I spoke to on our cycling trip in 2023 were strangely uninterested in their own mythology. Kalevipoeg is boring and...
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Sep 23 min read


A Swedish outpost
Dirhami was our cycling destination from a camping spot west of Tallinn. It sounded to me like Moroccan currency, at any rate, a word in...
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Aug 263 min read


The windmills of Angla
Standing in a field on the island of Saaremaa are five wooden windmills. They make a striking arrangement when viewed from an angle....
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Aug 192 min read


The silent treatment
Friends in Estonia showed me the ERR website , the state news and broadcasting service, in the hope of my improving my rudimentary...
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Aug 162 min read


Nine skills
In Viking tradition, the accomplished person is one who has mastered nine skills. The poet who wrote the list was born in Norway, and...
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Aug 83 min read


The summer house
Asked what Estonians do at their summer houses, I was told they basically chop firewood. There’s more to it, of course: having a sauna,...
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Jul 292 min read


Arrival in NZ
“You will be taught the language, our money system, the rights and duties of citizenship, and our social customs before you attempt to...
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Jul 223 min read


Estonia's first national park
Among the vast output of books in the Estonian language during the Soviet era is a beautiful coffee table book published in 1983 titled...
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Jul 172 min read


Scything man
Curved blade of Austrian tempered steel attached to an ash shaft, a whetstone of Italian quartz sandstone to hone it, kept in a copper...
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Jul 123 min read


Cornflowers
Grandma used to plant them, a summer flower having a dandelion-like circle of blue petals. Auntie Johanna had sent her seeds from...
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Jun 273 min read


Colouring the senses
Estonia’s points of difference to the rest of the world have been a running theme in this series of blogposts. One claim is that Uralic...
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Jun 203 min read


Singing sands
Mystical and magical is how Estonian tourism websites describe two sandy beaches in Estonia that make melodic sounds in the right...
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Jun 112 min read


JRR Tolkien and writing on Estonia
An English writer’s fantasy epic of a ring of evil power and of a wizard, hobbits, men, a dwarf and an elf who seek to destroy it has...
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Jun 34 min read


'Wife carrying' anyone?
For a non-PC sport, men moving as fast as they can through an obstacle course carrying a woman on their back would be a prime candidate....
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May 263 min read
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