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Into the void
Ski jumping would be one of the more death-defying winter sports ever conceived. Andero Kapp takes it in his stride. Fixing 2.56-metre...
bernienapp
Aug 6, 20242 min read


The sheds at Altja
Like the Mona Lisa and the Taj Mahal, the fishermen’s sheds at Altja are smaller than expected, still impressive. Five of solid timber...
bernienapp
Jul 27, 20242 min read


Combing for clues of ancient Estonians
A wooden comb dated to 150 CE at a Danish site has the oldest known runic inscription, harja, said to be a man’s name. Well, it might...
bernienapp
Jul 16, 20242 min read


A time of Tsars
To understand Estonia’s history in the lead up to the first independence, I took an interest in Russia’s Tsars. Knowing these characters...
bernienapp
Jul 4, 20243 min read


What's in a name
Oak, birch, pine, hawk and lynx, spring, beach, sea, cliff, hill, sand and island - typical Estonian surnames today. For peasants,...
bernienapp
Jun 22, 20242 min read


Hidden meaning in socks
Knit patterns for a long time preserved Estonian tradition, during the long centuries of foreign rule. On leaving Otepää, our family gave...
bernienapp
Jun 13, 20242 min read


Nightingale of the mother river
“Oh mother river, where still flowers the tongue of an ancient time, where its song and string sounds still call after us.” Words of...
bernienapp
Jun 1, 20243 min read


Seen one lighthouse
You’ve seen them all; they are tall and have a light on top. Although a trip around Estonia’s lighthouses would not be without merit....
bernienapp
May 23, 20242 min read


A town built of salt
Wandering around the old town of Tallinn, its size is striking, even for Mediaeval merchants needing a fortified port and entrepôt. Stone...
bernienapp
May 14, 20243 min read


The Baltic klint
Estonia’s national stone is limestone, although as quarry men will tell you, most countries prize their calcium carbonate. Fair enough...
bernienapp
May 5, 20242 min read


A flaming land
One day around 3500 years ago a piece of space rock burst into flame on hitting the Earth’s atmosphere, disintegrated, and plummeted into...
bernienapp
Apr 28, 20242 min read


An outstanding landscape
I had not heard of Konrad Mägi until cycling to the shores of the saadjärv. This is one of several long, thin lakes separated by moraine...
bernienapp
Apr 20, 20243 min read


A note on camping
Pitching a tent among Baltic pines, the sea nearby, blueberries in season; what could be better? Drinking water, but I’m not complaining....
bernienapp
Apr 13, 20243 min read


A most peculiar war
Vladimir Lenin declared on sealing Estonia’s independence by treaty in early 1920: “We have yielded much. The more important are the...
bernienapp
Mar 28, 20243 min read


Take and give
Central to Estonian culture – and to many others – is the idea of reciprocity. We received so much hospitality during our trip, we are...
bernienapp
Mar 8, 20243 min read


A word on language
The Estonian language is a case of, “don’t try this at home”, or ära püüa kodus seda keelt õppida. I probably got that wrong. Estonian is...
bernienapp
Mar 1, 20243 min read


Heart of oak
Growing in the middle of a football field on Saaremaa is an oak voted European tree of the year in 2015. Someone had a sense of humour....
bernienapp
Feb 21, 20242 min read


An involuntary gold miner
The story of Bernhard Lehova, grandma’s younger brother, always had an unreal quality to it. In dad’s telling, his uncle returned to the...
bernienapp
Feb 17, 20242 min read


Cold case reopened
Cousin Inga pulled out two letters dated 1949 she had discovered 3 weeks prior to our arrival. Hidden in the back of our great-aunt...
bernienapp
Feb 6, 20243 min read


The end of old Estonia
A warming climate, a Pope in difficulty, and a boy born Temujin in 1162 figured among key events - to my mind - that ended millennia of...
bernienapp
Jan 31, 20243 min read
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