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Places written in blood
Hundreds of Estonian place names end in “of blood”. A sign seeking blood donations plays on this oddity - “Estonia has 650 locations...
bernienapp
Feb 23 min read


A poet of his time
Estonian winters were too long for Juhan Liiv. He wrote melancholic poetry, comparing the processes of nature with that of his own...
bernienapp
Jan 282 min read


An Estonian cabin in NZ
Falling rain, visible in the car headlights. I saw the roof of my wooden cabin lying upside down in one piece on the ground. The wind had...
bernienapp
Jan 233 min read


The Keres Attack
Sitting down to play Yefim Bogoljogow in Salzburg in 1943, Paul Keres was into his third nationality as the tides of war swirled around...
bernienapp
Jan 73 min read


Painting her inner child
Hailing from Haapsalu, Ilon Wikland illustrated more children’s books by Astrid Lindgren than anyone, though not Pippi Longstocking....
bernienapp
Jan 23 min read


A merry Christmas pig
According to legend, marzipan made its first appearance at the pharmacy in Tallinn’s townhall square, created by accident in the 1400s....
bernienapp
Dec 25, 20242 min read


The national awakening
45,000 arrive at Parliament in Wellington, flying the red, black-and-white Māori sovereignty flag, and waving placards announcing tōitu...
bernienapp
Dec 20, 20243 min read


A blacksmith's curse
“When you hear the secret words, arise, sword, and kill … collect the debt of a murderer and fulfil the wish of your creator,” Ilmarinen...
bernienapp
Dec 9, 20243 min read


Thunder and lightning
Clouds are gathering fast as we pitch our tent, at an RMK campsite beside the pühajärv , the holy lake. Unused to thunderstorms back...
bernienapp
Dec 2, 20242 min read


Through the looking glass
As for Alice in wonderland, so for New Zealanders visiting Estonia, parallel worlds obeying different laws. What we call pests and weeds...
bernienapp
Nov 23, 20242 min read


The best of Estonia
More than a year ago we arrived with our bikes at Lennart Meri airport, where family and a friend met us, and drove us into western...
bernienapp
Nov 12, 20243 min read


Junipers and stones
“I grew up among junipers and stones,” an old poem says, “they are my brothers and sisters, those without names.” We cycled through alvar...
bernienapp
Nov 5, 20242 min read


How Estonians got surnames
Hunting for Napp headstones in the Otepää cemetery , I took a note of last names. Besides the nature-based ones listed in an earlier blog...
bernienapp
Oct 28, 20243 min read


Where stones are still alive
Of old, trees and stones shared the same reality as animals – humans could treat with all, as living beings imbued with a soul. In other...
bernienapp
Oct 20, 20243 min read


Planting wild cherries
I could barely swing the pickaxe into the soil for two wild cherry saplings a friend gave me, to grace the summer cabin. Toomingas are...
bernienapp
Oct 11, 20242 min read


The stepping brook
My favourite river in Estonia would be the treppoja , a clean waterway that cascades into the Baltic sea over a series of widely...
bernienapp
Sep 21, 20242 min read


Unearthing an old devil
An Estonian walks along a field, the westering sun behind him, and he sees in front of him a lengthening shadow. He’s limping a bit, and...
bernienapp
Sep 9, 20243 min read


The thresher
Among the more entertaining figures in Estonian myth is a real person in peasant culture, the rehepapp or the dryer and thresher of...
bernienapp
Aug 31, 20242 min read


Are Estonians indigenous?
This was a question put to academics at a botanical field station in western Estonia, and they laughed. “Not at all” was one view, citing...
bernienapp
Aug 21, 20243 min read


Estonian sauna in NZ
I am now admitted to a select group of sauna brothers in Golden Bay. Observing “Estonian rules” in evening twilight – no clothes, towels...
bernienapp
Aug 14, 20242 min read
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