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Arrival in NZ
“You will be taught the language, our money system, the rights and duties of citizenship, and our social customs before you attempt to...
bernienapp
Jul 22, 20253 min read


Estonia's first national park
Among the vast output of books in the Estonian language during the Soviet era is a beautiful coffee table book published in 1983 titled...
bernienapp
Jul 17, 20252 min read


Scything man
Curved blade of Austrian tempered steel attached to an ash shaft, a whetstone of Italian quartz sandstone to hone it, kept in a copper...
bernienapp
Jul 12, 20253 min read


Cornflowers
Grandma used to plant them, a summer flower having a dandelion-like circle of blue petals. Auntie Johanna had sent her seeds from...
bernienapp
Jun 27, 20253 min read


Colouring the senses
Estonia’s points of difference to the rest of the world have been a running theme in this series of blogposts. One claim is that Uralic...
bernienapp
Jun 20, 20253 min read


Singing sands
Mystical and magical is how Estonian tourism websites describe two sandy beaches in Estonia that make melodic sounds in the right...
bernienapp
Jun 11, 20252 min read


JRR Tolkien and writing on Estonia
An English writer’s fantasy epic of a ring of evil power and of a wizard, hobbits, men, a dwarf and an elf who seek to destroy it has...
bernienapp
Jun 3, 20254 min read


'Wife carrying' anyone?
For a non-PC sport, men moving as fast as they can through an obstacle course carrying a woman on their back would be a prime candidate....
bernienapp
May 26, 20253 min read


Perilous marsh lights
In Estonia, as in much of the world, flickering marsh lights were said to lead unwary travellers to their doom. All the stories describe...
bernienapp
May 20, 20254 min read


Massacre at Salme
Around 1,300 years ago two boatloads of hardy, young warriors received the shock of their lives on landing at an Estonian island....
bernienapp
May 12, 20252 min read


Naming the Estonians
Naming a people and the place where they live stamps their identity. Eesti and eesti rahvas or eestlased do that for a subset of...
bernienapp
May 6, 20253 min read


The immortal loser
There is no sensation quite like losing at chess, especially with a draw in sight and failing to escape. That’s what happened to me...
bernienapp
May 1, 20253 min read


What's your spirit animal?
Shamanism was at one time, and still is a thing in Estonia. This tradition of entering an ecstatic trance to enter the spirit world...
bernienapp
Apr 24, 20252 min read


Crickets ...
Golden light on the hills, sitting on a friend’s deck drinking cold water, tired from trimming and tying grape vines, and listening to...
bernienapp
Apr 16, 20252 min read


Songs of the Kääpa river
Small in flow, the Kääpa northeast of Tartu runs thick in legend and inspiration. This gently flowing stream is where the epic hero...
bernienapp
Apr 10, 20253 min read


'Among the Russians'
“I drove west from Leningrad towards those troubled Baltic states – Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania – whose tragedy has been their tiny size,...
bernienapp
Apr 2, 20253 min read


Skiing in ancient Estonia
Like the sauna, the ski is an invention of Finnic peoples, dating back as far as 8,000 years, in what is now Finnish-speaking western...
bernienapp
Mar 25, 20252 min read


Buying an Estonian island
This is less easy to do than you might think – after all, Estonia has 2,300 islands. One situated 80km from Tallinn spans 1 hectare and...
bernienapp
Mar 17, 20252 min read


e-Stonia
The West seems to be losing its way in the world, while in Estonia the will to live is stronger than ever, digital technology leading the...
bernienapp
Mar 9, 20252 min read


Flying the tricolour
Our family gave us each an Estonian flag and pennant. I am flying the lipp today at an event hosted by Estonia’s honorary consul, David...
bernienapp
Feb 24, 20252 min read
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