top of page


The immortal loser
There is no sensation quite like losing at chess, especially with a draw in sight and failing to escape. That’s what happened to me...
bernienapp
May 1, 20253 min read


What's your spirit animal?
Shamanism was at one time, and still is a thing in Estonia. This tradition of entering an ecstatic trance to enter the spirit world...
bernienapp
Apr 24, 20252 min read


Crickets ...
Golden light on the hills, sitting on a friend’s deck drinking cold water, tired from trimming and tying grape vines, and listening to...
bernienapp
Apr 16, 20252 min read


Songs of the Kääpa river
Small in flow, the Kääpa northeast of Tartu runs thick in legend and inspiration. This gently flowing stream is where the epic hero...
bernienapp
Apr 10, 20253 min read


'Among the Russians'
“I drove west from Leningrad towards those troubled Baltic states – Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania – whose tragedy has been their tiny size,...
bernienapp
Apr 2, 20253 min read


Skiing in ancient Estonia
Like the sauna, the ski is an invention of Finnic peoples, dating back as far as 8,000 years, in what is now Finnish-speaking western...
bernienapp
Mar 25, 20252 min read


Buying an Estonian island
This is less easy to do than you might think – after all, Estonia has 2,300 islands. One situated 80km from Tallinn spans 1 hectare and...
bernienapp
Mar 17, 20252 min read


e-Stonia
The West seems to be losing its way in the world, while in Estonia the will to live is stronger than ever, digital technology leading the...
bernienapp
Mar 9, 20252 min read


Flying the tricolour
Our family gave us each an Estonian flag and pennant. I am flying the lipp today at an event hosted by Estonia’s honorary consul, David...
bernienapp
Feb 24, 20252 min read


Spirit of Tartu
The university city of Tartu is said to have a vaim or spirit to it. And yet when we visit Estonia’s second city, set astride the...
bernienapp
Feb 19, 20252 min read


Estonia in winter
November is the worst month, we are told, cold and dark and no snow. December has on average 18 hours of sunshine, also no good. Snow is...
bernienapp
Feb 10, 20252 min read


Places written in blood
Hundreds of Estonian place names end in “of blood”. A sign seeking blood donations plays on this oddity - “Estonia has 650 locations...
bernienapp
Feb 2, 20253 min read


A poet of his time
Estonian winters were too long for Juhan Liiv. He wrote melancholic poetry, comparing the processes of nature with that of his own...
bernienapp
Jan 28, 20252 min read


An Estonian cabin in NZ
Falling rain, visible in the car headlights. I saw the roof of my wooden cabin lying upside down in one piece on the ground. The wind had...
bernienapp
Jan 23, 20253 min read


The Keres Attack
Sitting down to play Yefim Bogoljogow in Salzburg in 1943, Paul Keres was into his third nationality as the tides of war swirled around...
bernienapp
Jan 7, 20253 min read


Painting her inner child
Hailing from Haapsalu, Ilon Wikland illustrated more children’s books by Astrid Lindgren than anyone, though not Pippi Longstocking....
bernienapp
Jan 2, 20253 min read


A merry Christmas pig
According to legend, marzipan made its first appearance at the pharmacy in Tallinn’s townhall square, created by accident in the 1400s....
bernienapp
Dec 25, 20242 min read


The national awakening
45,000 arrive at Parliament in Wellington, flying the red, black-and-white Māori sovereignty flag, and waving placards announcing tōitu...
bernienapp
Dec 20, 20243 min read


Kartulisalat
On the occasion of Esto community Christmas, I altered my recipe for potato salad, of Swiss origin, for that of Estonian tastes and...
bernienapp
Dec 16, 20241 min read


A blacksmith's curse
“When you hear the secret words, arise, sword, and kill … collect the debt of a murderer and fulfil the wish of your creator,” Ilmarinen...
bernienapp
Dec 9, 20243 min read
bottom of page