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Estonia's most dangerous animal
Not wolves, bears or lynxes – the meanest critter in Estonia is 2mm long, and almost impossible to avoid. Ticks are much like spiders and...
bernienapp
Oct 20, 20232 min read


When democracy is hard fought
On 20 August 1991 a column of Soviet tanks and armoured vehicles advanced towards Tallinn from Russian Pskov in the southeast. This...
bernienapp
Oct 15, 20232 min read


Are Estonians boat people?
For a slice of Estonia’s living past, try paddling a hollowed-out, sideways-stretched aspen log. We found the haabjas surprisingly light...
bernienapp
Oct 12, 20232 min read


Into exile
“My fatherland is my love; abandon it I shan’t,” sing the words of poetess Lydia Koidula. In 1944 our grandma did leave Estonia, dad in...
bernienapp
Oct 9, 20233 min read


Extreme swinging
Ever thought of looping 360 degrees on a swing? Invented in Estonia, the sport of kiiking is just that; to win, you go full circle at a...
bernienapp
Oct 6, 20232 min read


When giants threw stones
Ranging from the size of a fist to that of a house, the millions of blocky crystalline stones strewn along the Baltic coast cannot fail...
bernienapp
Oct 1, 20232 min read


An old farmhouse
Deep in our family memory is the farmstead, the talu where grandma grew up and where dad spent a winter and spring during the war. While...
bernienapp
Sep 28, 20234 min read


Soul of Estonia
More than half of Estonia’s land area is forest, and so the forest figures large in the Estonian imagination, in myth and legend, culture...
bernienapp
Sep 23, 20232 min read


A secret to survival
Estonia's problem from a defensive point of view is that it is basically flat. Great for cycling but not for repelling invaders, and...
bernienapp
Sep 22, 20233 min read


Sauna brothers
We had 10 saunas during our trip, the pride of our Estonian hosts, often, the centre piece of their homes. The Estonian word is saun ,...
bernienapp
Sep 19, 20232 min read


Never to forget
On 23 August 1989, two million people linked hands across the Baltic States, a line 676 kilometres long. Stretching from Tallinn to...
bernienapp
Sep 18, 20232 min read
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