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On self-determination
“The secret of Chimneys” is the title of a 1925 murder mystery-romance by Agatha Christie, the prolific British crime writer. It involves...
bernienapp
Sep 26, 20253 min read


Why visit Estonia?
“The incredible Estonians” was one working title for this project; another, “Living at the edge of free Europe”. How have 1.2 million...
bernienapp
Sep 15, 20252 min read


A silver brooch
Completing the traditional Estonian regalia of a white peasant shirt or blouse tied at the waist in a woollen belt is a brooch to fasten...
bernienapp
Sep 8, 20252 min read


The importance of myth
The Estonians I spoke to on our cycling trip in 2023 were strangely uninterested in their own mythology. Kalevipoeg is boring and...
bernienapp
Sep 2, 20253 min read


A Swedish outpost
Dirhami was our cycling destination from a camping spot west of Tallinn. It sounded to me like Moroccan currency, at any rate, a word in...
bernienapp
Aug 26, 20253 min read


The windmills of Angla
Standing in a field on the island of Saaremaa are five wooden windmills. They make a striking arrangement when viewed from an angle....
bernienapp
Aug 19, 20252 min read


The silent treatment
Friends in Estonia showed me the ERR website , the state news and broadcasting service, in the hope of my improving my rudimentary...
bernienapp
Aug 16, 20252 min read


Nine skills
In Viking tradition, the accomplished person is one who has mastered nine skills. The poet who wrote the list was born in Norway, and...
bernienapp
Aug 8, 20253 min read


The summer house
Asked what Estonians do at their summer houses, I was told they basically chop firewood. There’s more to it, of course: having a sauna,...
bernienapp
Jul 29, 20252 min read


Arrival in NZ
“You will be taught the language, our money system, the rights and duties of citizenship, and our social customs before you attempt to...
bernienapp
Jul 22, 20253 min read


Estonia's first national park
Among the vast output of books in the Estonian language during the Soviet era is a beautiful coffee table book published in 1983 titled...
bernienapp
Jul 17, 20252 min read


Scything man
Curved blade of Austrian tempered steel attached to an ash shaft, a whetstone of Italian quartz sandstone to hone it, kept in a copper...
bernienapp
Jul 12, 20253 min read


Cornflowers
Grandma used to plant them, a summer flower having a dandelion-like circle of blue petals. Auntie Johanna had sent her seeds from...
bernienapp
Jun 27, 20253 min read


Colouring the senses
Estonia’s points of difference to the rest of the world have been a running theme in this series of blogposts. One claim is that Uralic...
bernienapp
Jun 20, 20253 min read


Singing sands
Mystical and magical is how Estonian tourism websites describe two sandy beaches in Estonia that make melodic sounds in the right...
bernienapp
Jun 11, 20252 min read


JRR Tolkien and writing on Estonia
An English writer’s fantasy epic of a ring of evil power and of a wizard, hobbits, men, a dwarf and an elf who seek to destroy it has...
bernienapp
Jun 3, 20254 min read


'Wife carrying' anyone?
For a non-PC sport, men moving as fast as they can through an obstacle course carrying a woman on their back would be a prime candidate....
bernienapp
May 26, 20253 min read


Perilous marsh lights
In Estonia, as in much of the world, flickering marsh lights were said to lead unwary travellers to their doom. All the stories describe...
bernienapp
May 20, 20254 min read


Massacre at Salme
Around 1,300 years ago two boatloads of hardy, young warriors received the shock of their lives on landing at an Estonian island....
bernienapp
May 12, 20252 min read


Naming the Estonians
Naming a people and the place where they live stamps their identity. Eesti and eesti rahvas or eestlased do that for a subset of...
bernienapp
May 6, 20253 min read
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