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Perilous marsh lights
In Estonia, as in much of the world, flickering marsh lights were said to lead unwary travellers to their doom. All the stories describe...
bernienapp
May 204 min read


Massacre at Salme
Around 1,300 years ago two boatloads of hardy, young warriors received the shock of their lives on landing at an Estonian island....
bernienapp
May 122 min read


Naming the Estonians
Naming a people and the place where they live stamps their identity. Eesti and eesti rahvas or eestlased do that for a subset of...
bernienapp
May 63 min read


The immortal loser
There is no sensation quite like losing at chess, especially with a draw in sight and failing to escape. That’s what happened to me...
bernienapp
May 13 min read


What's your spirit animal?
Shamanism was at one time, and still is a thing in Estonia. This tradition of entering an ecstatic trance to enter the spirit world...
bernienapp
Apr 242 min read


Crickets ...
Golden light on the hills, sitting on a friend’s deck drinking cold water, tired from trimming and tying grape vines, and listening to...
bernienapp
Apr 162 min read


Songs of the Kääpa river
Small in flow, the Kääpa northeast of Tartu runs thick in legend and inspiration. This gently flowing stream is where the epic hero...
bernienapp
Apr 103 min read


'Among the Russians'
“I drove west from Leningrad towards those troubled Baltic states – Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania – whose tragedy has been their tiny size,...
bernienapp
Apr 23 min read


Skiing in ancient Estonia
Like the sauna, the ski is an invention of Finnic peoples, dating back as far as 8,000 years, in what is now Finnish-speaking western...
bernienapp
Mar 252 min read


Buying an Estonian island
This is less easy to do than you might think – after all, Estonia has 2,300 islands. One situated 80km from Tallinn spans 1 hectare and...
bernienapp
Mar 172 min read


e-Stonia
The West seems to be losing its way in the world, while in Estonia the will to live is stronger than ever, digital technology leading the...
bernienapp
Mar 92 min read


Flying the tricolour
Our family gave us each an Estonian flag and pennant. I am flying the lipp today at an event hosted by Estonia’s honorary consul, David...
bernienapp
Feb 242 min read


Spirit of Tartu
The university city of Tartu is said to have a vaim or spirit to it. And yet when we visit Estonia’s second city, set astride the...
bernienapp
Feb 192 min read


Estonia in winter
November is the worst month, we are told, cold and dark and no snow. December has on average 18 hours of sunshine, also no good. Snow is...
bernienapp
Feb 102 min read


Places written in blood
Hundreds of Estonian place names end in “of blood”. A sign seeking blood donations plays on this oddity - “Estonia has 650 locations...
bernienapp
Feb 23 min read


A poet of his time
Estonian winters were too long for Juhan Liiv. He wrote melancholic poetry, comparing the processes of nature with that of his own...
bernienapp
Jan 282 min read


An Estonian cabin in NZ
Falling rain, visible in the car headlights. I saw the roof of my wooden cabin lying upside down in one piece on the ground. The wind had...
bernienapp
Jan 233 min read


The Keres Attack
Sitting down to play Yefim Bogoljogow in Salzburg in 1943, Paul Keres was into his third nationality as the tides of war swirled around...
bernienapp
Jan 73 min read


Painting her inner child
Hailing from Haapsalu, Ilon Wikland illustrated more children’s books by Astrid Lindgren than anyone, though not Pippi Longstocking....
bernienapp
Jan 23 min read


A merry Christmas pig
According to legend, marzipan made its first appearance at the pharmacy in Tallinn’s townhall square, created by accident in the 1400s....
bernienapp
Dec 25, 20242 min read
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